After my first experience of winter climbing, I knew I was in for the long haul. We had ticked off some nice gentle routes on that trip as is sensible to do. But I knew for this trip that I had bigger objectives in mind. I was looking for a grade IV to try, and while flicking through the guide book came across Tower Ridge.
Almost certainly the finest winter climb in the UK available to weekend warriors, and certainly the longest. Tower ridge continues to fascinate and compel, with a magnificent mix of wall, ridge, and traverse lines taking the boldest classic alpine route almost to the very summit of Britain’s highest mountain. The two crux pitches, the eastern traverse and the Tower Gap are formidable obstacles in any conditions, and many a party has been benighted attempting to solve their mysteries. On a ridge like this, route finding should be obvious, but in poor weather it can be a nightmare. Worth remembering is the Tower Ridge Rulebook (Cold Climbs) quote “Go up to the Great Tower until it gets really steep before traversing left” – not knowing this has led to many epics, several mentioned below.
We started as a team of 2 and a team of 3. None of us had attempted an IV before but we were all keen. This was to be the final day of climbing on a trip that saw us taking in easy warm up routes Dorsal Arête II, Ledge Route II, and Curved Ridge III. We were feeling the fatigue after 3 days out in a row but there was no time for hanging around on the walk in with precious little day light to spare. We made our way over from Glen Nevis into the valley to the Memorial Hut at the bottom of the North Face of the Ben. After a quick bite it was up onto the snow slope past the Douglas boulder, there were a few parties out that day making the most of the improving conditions.
From here the terrain steepened sharply to a snow gulley which was nicely stepped already by a previous party. From the top of this you could see the next section of ridge rising, rockier this time into the encroaching cloud cover. We regrouped, and decided to pitch the next section. Chael took the lead with myself 2nd, then the others bringing up the rear. We were the faster climbers. The pitch was quite bold actually. But Chael the mad lad didn’t bat an eye, and was off like a man possessed.
The ridge snaked on over easy ground for the next part so we were able to move together. As we started I could see the others just finishing off the previous pitch. We didn’t see them again for the rest of the climb. The gradient gradually steepened as we made rapid progress. Following the route description, we tended right and upward. Still moving together we worked through sloping ledges hidden under loose powder snow with not much in the way of protection if either of us fell. Eventually coming to a large ledge before a sheer wall. Was this the eastern traverse already? Our gut told us no, so we picked our way around it to the right hand side and up. We had waited for any sign of the others, and thought we could hear them in the distance.
This continued for another section of moving together until we finally got to the foot of the Great Tower and the start of the eastern traverse. We were doing well on time, though we’d prepared for finishing in the dark if need be.
The Eastern traverse was what it said on the tin pretty much. In order to get around the sheer wall of the Great Tower we needed to edge to the left around a 20m wide semicircular bay of rock dropping down almost to the foot of the cliff. With not much in the way of a belay, I steadied myself on the snow slope at the entrance to the traverse, deciding to throw myself backward should Chael fall. He stepped out into the airy position and started side stepping across. There wasn’t much protection so he just went for it! This tactic involved having to stop half way with the rope stretching across empty space to untangle the rope which had become wrapped around his neck! Even as a 2nd the traverse was spicy!
Once I’d followed the Eastern Traverse pitch, the way led up a massive flake of rock which we managed to slither up with a few awkward moves. I only had one ice tool so had to supplement with numb hands into cracks and snow holes. From this belay sitting astride the flake, the final steep pitch before the Gap was visible. Large blocks layered in fresh snow. This was the hardest pitch for me with a single tool, but with some very high feet and a good bit of digging I managed it!
And there we were, at the Tower Gap! We took in the exposed atmosphere, though there was no view with the cloud cover. We took some pictures and got out our mountaineering club flag of course. Then our thoughts turned to the others, where were they? There was no chance of them making the ridge before dark. We checked our phones, and saw a message saying that they’d decided to retreat in the early sections. But no word since. Were they down by now? Or had they come unstuck? With no answer from them, the only way was to finish off the route and head down!
We sorted ourselves out and moved along the knife edge ridge into the gap, no more than a meter wide and vertical drops on both sides, this was the most exciting moment of the climb. The Gap involves a manoeuvre down past a large block via an in situe sling, then a climb out the other side. This led to the final easy ridge and lastly, a firm snow slope. This final obstacle felt super pumpy after all that had been, and i found myself using my ice tool with my right hand and smashing a hole in the show for my left or finger jamming in Cheals tool marks! But at long last were were on the summit plateau! The feeling was incredible! We celebrated and started our descent by the tourist track as our outer layers froze solid.
Still no word from the others, and it was getting dark now in earnest. We just hoped that we’d find them back at the hostel in Glen nevis. We ran the final section of the trail in the dark, minding the treacherous rock steps in the wet. Crossing the bridge over the river and the road opposite the hostel, we ran to the window to find the others in the lounge waiting! We felt close to tears!
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Fun Once Its Done 